Bonsai Design and Cutting

The removal of the tap root promotes the branching of the root ball so that the root forms a uniform approach.  In addition to the traditional method of “pruning” you can also go through the branches using traditional forms of tension wires (palm fibre cords were once used), and more recent is the method of clamping.

The branches or twigs (depending on which part of the tree is the correct one), are spirally wrapped with a special (anodized) aluminium or annealed copper wire and carefully bent into shape.

This is used in areas of vigorous tree growth to offset the balance.  An artificial autumn is simulated, thus the sprouting shoots usually have smaller leaves.  In order to protect the bud, the axis of the leaf stalk is left in when standing.

To ensure a delicate branching or sufficient density, the tree must be trimmed regularly.  The location plays an important role too, because a tree that is situated for example in a very dark location, is essentially a long axis.

In most cases, there are almost no compromises in terms of light requirements of individual species.  It is often cut slightly, and it is suggested correspondingly that less growth is rare, but is cut for more.  The respective sprout depends crucially on the season. Old branches are removed (this is called the multi-wood) and especially encouraged are so-called dormant buds on the shoots, which in turn, are a renewal of the interior of the tree. The tree will remain healthy and vital.

In some cases, a pot is specially made for a tree by hand.  Dignified old pine trees use an upright style.  Cascades grow in deeper pots, otherwise the optical balance is wrong and seems to tilt the tree.